What does historic restoration mean for a house like yours?
It means understanding how your house was built before deciding what to change. A southeastern Pennsylvania farmhouse from the late 1700s works very differently from a modern home. Its walls are often solid fieldstone, 18 inches thick or more, laid in lime mortar. Its floors rest on hand-hewn or early sawn timbers of old-growth oak and chestnut. Its interior walls are usually three-coat lime plaster on wood lath.
Each of those materials behaves differently from the materials most remodelers handle every day. Treat them like modern materials and the house pays for it, sometimes years later.
Why do stone walls need to breathe?
A stone wall manages water by letting it move. Rain soaks into the outer face and dries back out in both directions. Lime mortar is intentionally softer and more permeable than the stone, so it acts as the sacrificial part of the wall. It takes the wear, and it can be repointed every few generations.
Trouble starts when that cycle is interrupted. Common culprits are Portland cement repointing, cement-based stucco, elastomeric paint, spray foam against the inside face, and regrading that sends water toward the foundation. Many damp basements, spalled stones, and peeling interior walls in old houses trace back to one of those well-meant repairs. That is why we favor vapor-open materials, such as lime mortar, lime plaster, and mineral paints, anywhere the old wall has to keep drying.
The houses of this region
Southeastern Pennsylvania has one of the richest stocks of early houses in the country, and each type has its own logic:
- Pennsylvania German farmhouses in Berks and Lancaster counties, some with center chimneys and continental floor plans, and many with a pent roof, the small shed roof running between the first and second floors.
- Georgian and Federal stone and brick houses in Chester, Bucks, and Montgomery counties, built with symmetrical facades, deep window reveals, and fine interior woodwork.
- Victorian borough houses in towns like Reading, Lancaster, Doylestown, and West Chester, often balloon-framed, with tall windows and elaborate millwork.
- Slate roofs from the Lehigh Valley’s Slate Belt and from the Peach Bottom district, many of which can be repaired rather than replaced.
- Original windows with old-growth sash and cylinder glass, the wavy glass that no replacement unit reproduces.
What standard guides the work?
The Secretary of the Interior’s Standards for Rehabilitation, published by the National Park Service, are the most widely used framework for work on historic buildings. In plain terms, they say to repair rather than replace, to match what must be replaced in design, material, and texture, to avoid harsh treatments such as sandblasting, and to make new work compatible with the old but distinguishable from it.
The Standards are required for federal historic tax credit projects, and many review boards use them as a reference. Most private homeowners are not legally bound by them, but we treat them as a sound guide either way.
What we do
Our historic restoration work covers the whole house, from foundation to ridge:
- Preconstruction investigation. Probes, moisture readings, mortar examination, and framing and foundation assessment, recorded in a written house record before we finalize pricing.
- Masonry. Lime mortar repointing and stone repair matched to the original in makeup, color, and joint profile, following the guidance in the National Park Service’s Preservation Brief 2.
- Structure. Repair of sills, joists, beams, and rafters by sistering, splicing, and reinforcing old-growth timber rather than replacing it wholesale.
- Windows and doors. Repair of original sash, frames, and doors, with storm windows fitted to improve comfort.
- Plaster. Repair of original lime plaster and new three-coat plaster where a wall can’t be saved, rather than defaulting to drywall.
- Roofs. Slate, standing-seam metal, and wood shingle repair and replacement, with copper or terne flashings detailed for long service.
- Millwork. Reproduction of historic trim, moldings, mantels, and doors to match surviving profiles.
- Systems. New electrical to replace knob-and-tube wiring, plumbing, and heating and cooling routed to minimize damage to original fabric.
- Lead and hazardous materials. Lead-safe work practices on pre-1978 painted surfaces, and testing before disturbing suspect materials such as old pipe insulation or flooring.
- New spaces. Kitchens, baths, and additions that fit the house. See kitchens and baths in older homes and home additions.
How we approach it
Every restoration follows the same principles. They are built into our process, from preconstruction through Heritage Care.
- Investigate before we price. Old houses hide things. We find as much as we can before construction starts, and we set a clear contingency for what we can’t see yet, so the budget reflects the real house.
- Repair before we replace. Original fabric can’t be bought again. A repaired 1830s window sash or a patched plaster ceiling keeps something no new product can offer.
- Keep the old walls drying. Anything that touches historic masonry or plaster should let moisture move. We choose materials for how they behave in the wall, not only for how they look.
- Make new work honest. New kitchens, systems, and additions should sit comfortably beside the old without pretending to be original, and wherever practical they should be removable later without harm.
- Leave a record. We document what we find and what we do, with photos, materials, and mortar mixes, so the next steward of the house knows its story.
When a project calls for a full reconfiguration rather than a focused restoration, our whole-home remodeling work applies the same care at a larger scale. We take on this work across the counties we serve in southeastern Pennsylvania.